FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS

 

Why should I invest in a custom suit?

If purchasing a suit at a mid-level department store or chain retailer, you will be offered lower quality garments often sold by less informed sales people (and completely machine made in China). In contrast, the finer suits in better department stores often cost two or three times the price of a mid-range custom garment. When you go to a seasoned custom clothier, they will offer expert guidance, knowledge, and a selection of high quality fabrics and details. Your custom suit will fit better and provide the wearer with a unique garment unavailable in most stores.

 

How many suits should I own?

It depends entirely on your business needs or fashion desires. The business gent that wears a suit several days within a month should have no fewer than three. We recommend six suits for a professional man who must have his suits steam-pressed once a month or so. The more suits, the less wear & tear on them. It’s also more interesting to have options. Our “addicted” clients love to wear/own many suits and enjoy purchasing 2 or 3 each year.

 

How often should I dry clean my suits?

1-2 times per year.  Dry cleaning chemicals are harsh and deteriorate your fine cloth over time.  You’ll start to notice an unattractive “shine” to your suits, a clear indication that a garment has been dry cleaned too often.

Instead of frequent dry cleaning, you should ask for a “steam press” and spot clean when needed.  The high temperature from the steam kills most bacteria & odor.  The press will leave your suit looking fresh and clean.  We recommend a steam press every 3 wears of a suit.

 

How do I care for my custom dress shirts?

Your 100% cotton custom shirt is designed with an allowance for shrinkage.  In 3-5 washings, your shirt will fit in the way it was intended.  

For best results, take light-colored shirts to the cleaners and ask for them to be professionally laundered.  Dark colored shirts should be dry-cleaned to preserve the color.  If you prefer to care for your shirts at home, they can be washed in warm water, tumble dried, and pressed with a warm iron.

Multiple wears before cleaning will subject the fabric to stain and will deteriorate the cloth from our oily or acidic skin contact.

 

How can a custom suit cost less than $500?

It’s a made-to-measure (low quality) machine made garment. It will likely be constructed poorly from synthetic Asian cloth with synthetic interior components. If the suit is noisy, you’ve overpaid regardless of price. A good custom suit should cost no less than $1000.

 

What is the best suit for an interview?

A suit in admiral blue, navy or oxford grey, paired with a light blue or white shirt and an understated solid or foulard tie will have you at the top of the list.

 

How to measure yourself for a custom suit?

You don’t. Measuring yourself indicates that the garment is not custom at all. It’s a made-to-measure that is likely shipped directly from Asia to your doorstep. It’s a pre-existing suit pattern that is somewhat modified. It’s likely a lower quality fabric with an Italian sounding name and it is most likely completely machine made. Your involvement in the measuring process only creates more room for error. Our advice is to go to a professional tailor or custom clothier for a proper custom garment. It will cost more but your satisfaction and lack of disappointment will be your reward.

 

What does bespoke mean?

Bespoke means hand-made. A bespoke garment is mostly made-by-hand by a professional tailor. It is created from a reserved cloth and made for the individual using a paper pattern. The true meaning is exemplified in Europe (mostly London) where the tailor performs several basted fittings. Most US tailors and clothiers do not provide the bespoke experience however the term is incorrectly used to describe their services.

 

What is the difference between bespoke, custom, and made-to-measure?

All are custom, I suppose. Custom accurately describes anything being created specifically for an individual. Something that may not exist until you have commissioned it. In terms of suits, a bespoke suit is hand made and much finer details and quality are provided. The made-to-measure garment is pre-existing and modified to fit the client and delivered after the pattern has been adjusted. The made-to-measure garment is likely machine-made, wears less comfortably and may not fit as well. Design options are more limited. If your clothing salesman instructs you to put on a template coat or shirt and pins the garment on you before your suit is created, you are getting a made-to-measure garment. A true professional relies on his eye and the measuring tape.

 

What does super 120's mean? Super 130's etc.?

The word “Super” can only be used if the fibers are woven from pure, new wool. The number is determined by the thickness or fineness of each fiber, measured in microns, whereas the actual numerical value is the length of one single fiber in centimeters. The higher the number, the more luxurious the cloth since the fibers are longer, resulting in a smoother hand. Two-ply or three-ply means that each yarn is two or three fibers wrapped together, respectively. In most suiting fabrics, it is generally two yarns wrapped by a third. The super 100’s are less supple and more “scratchy,” but much more durable,making it the classic “workhorse” of suiting. The super 160’s are deliciously smooth to the touch but certainly not durable. However, if worn infrequently it could last for years. Higher super numbers are great for special occasions suits and tuxedos, as the fibers are more rare and spun into fine cloth.

 

What should I wear for my wedding?

Whatever your bride tells you...if you want our opinion, a great looking suit in blue or grey (depending on your coloring) or a tuxedo if it’s a black-tie wedding of course. The suit will have a fuller life with you after the big event. Regardless, you should remember that your pictures will last a lifetime and you’ll regret a bad clothing decision.

 

What is the difference between a sport coat and a blazer?

A sports jacket is patterned and a blazer is solid.

 

When do I wear a sports coat?

When everyone else is wearing a sweater or wind breaker. It’s a great way to express your individuality and look fantastic!

 

Should I own a navy blazer?

Yes. No brass buttons unless you belong to a societal club or yacht club. in which case your buttons should have significance like your family crest or school affiliation. Otherwise, they are atrocious. Anchors, fake flags or stag heads...time for a new one. We suggest a diamond or hopsack pattern with a ticket pocket. The blazer can be very cool and functional, especially worn with faded jeans or a crisp flannel trouser.

 

Should I own a tuxedo?

Only if you are required to wear them more than twice a year. Some gents love wearing formal wear. Others do not. The idea of wearing rented clothing should be the deciding factor. It doesn’t have to be custom and it can be somewhat affordable. The custom tuxedo is for those who are attending nice galas and many black-tie weddings.

 

What is the most classic tuxedo to own?

The black one button peak lapel model is the most classic tuxedo that works in all settings. However, we will encourage you to keep in step while we modify this tuxedo to make it more unique.

 

When can I wear a white dinner jacket?

The white or ivory dinner jacket is for formal afternoon weddings or summer evening black-tie gatherings.

 

What shoes should I wear with my suit?

A brown shoe pairs with grey, blue, and brown suits. Oxblood, a reddish-brown tone, looks great with grey or navy, and is a more unique option. The black shoe is ideal with a black suit, however we’d like to show you a cool departure for daytime. The later the hour, the darker the shoe. Remember, a lace-up or monk strap should be worn with your suit. The loafer is a more casual option for sport coats and blazers. You may pair a loafer with a suit & open collared shirt, but no socks: A Southern classic.

 

What shoe should I wear with my tuxedo?

Look for a black wholecut oxford with a mirror-polish, a great alternative to the typical patent leather.  This minimalistic style made from a single piece of leather offers the right amount of formality and understated elegance.  A smoking slipper in velvet or patent leather can also be worn.

Avoid cap toe shoes and wingtips - those should be worn during the day. They’re intended for business.  A less adorned shoe actually indicates that it is more formal.

 

How many pairs of dress shoes should I own?

Four is necessary. More if you’re a shoe nut. Ideally, you should keep your shoes in shoe trees when not worn. The soles can be replaced/repaired every 18 months or so. The more shoes you own, the longer they last and look great during their lifetime. Also, have them professionally polished once a week. If doing them yourself...I like polishing my own shoes however the shoe dude does a much better job...Lincoln polish not Kiwi.

 

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